Launderette - “Modern Mediterranean” is a good label for 41-year-old chef-owner Rene Ortiz’s menu, with over-the-top flavors mellowed by creamy cheeses and yogurts. His toasts are a legend in their own time: think crusty bread slathered with French feta, capers, and golden raisins. His cassoulet aces every ingredient: plump cannellini beans, coarse pork sausage redolent of garlic, and duck confit with dewy pink meat
